Okay, that's how it's done.
The show tends to get bogged down in plot twists and action setpieces. This episode had those (though no real surprises), but it remembered that what the show's really about is tense conversations. It took a lot of bullshit to finally get this season to where it was going, but it was worth the trip.
I was disappointed that we never found out about any deeper purpose from Littlefinger. I'm not sorry to see the weaselly fuck go, but between "what's the worst motive you can possibly imagine?" and a recitation of the almost-singularly-important role he's played in orchestrating the entire series, I wanted a little something more than just "he's an incurable asshole who wants to bang Sansa and rule Winterfell." I guess I can derive some amusement from the idea that he's possibly the single best player in the Game of Thrones but too small-minded to do anything about it, but it's pretty damn anticlimactic. Once again I find myself wondering how it'll play out in the books. (If I really want to take the "What's the worst motive I can imagine?" question to heart, it'd be "He's in league with the Night King." But that's a bit of a stretch.)
I also laughed out loud at Theon winning his big fight with the power of not having any balls.
And the Jon/Dany ship continues to be the weakest arc of the season. I mean, it's pretty clear the show's trying to squick us out what with the incest angle, but if they had the least bit of romantic chemistry, would that make it more off-putting, or less?
Quibbles aside, though, this was the best episode of the season, and it's not even close. (Though Diana Rigg's bow a few weeks back deserves an honorable mention.) This has been the homecoming season, the season that's all about characters who haven't seen each other in years meeting back up, and it hit so many perfect notes -- Tyrion and Pod, Tyrion and Bronn, Jaime and Brienne, Tyrion and Cersei, Jon and Theon...and, of course, the Brothers Clegane. Though they're still fucking teasing us with Cleganebowl.
Welp, that's it for this season. And, for the last time, we have a year to wonder if Martin will manage to put another book out before the show comes back.